轉貼~Hot!Wine Spectator 2006波爾多桶邊試酒報告!Part1.
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Bordeaux 2006: An Uneven Year
Wine Spectator's exclusive barrel tastings guide you to the wines worth buying as futures
James Suckling
Posted: Thursday, March 29, 2007
To be perfectly straightforward, 2006 is not a great vintage in Bordeaux. But it is a good year in which some producers made outstanding, even exceptional wines that will be worth seeking out.
It's simply not possible for the 2006 vintage to be great, as the growing season was such a difficult one. In May, mildew set in. July was very hot and dry. August was cool and grey, and then it was cold and rainy in mid-September; I was there and the weather was really rotten. Some producers may have panicked and started picking before their grapes were perfectly ripe, particularly those without the financial resources to risk it.
Just as the weather was varied, the wines are all very different in style and quality. In my barrel tastings here in Bordeaux, I've found that the majority of bourgeois crus and petit chateaus are good to very good, but not special. They are clean wines with good but not opulent fruit, firm tannins and medium length. Most lack some concentration on the midpalate and have slightly dry, austere tannins. At the same time, some chateaus made lovely wines—classic clarets that will need lots of aging to deal with their high tannins and bright acidities.
The outstanding and exceptional wines came from the classified growths and other big names—the chateaus with the great vineyards and the resources to do intensive work in both their vineyards and their cellars: green harvests and leaf thinning during the summer, strict selection of grapes during harvest and a severe selection of the wines. Those efforts paid off: The best 2006s show racy tannins with excellent length and solid cores of fruit, but very few wines are at this level.
Unlike the 2005 vintage, 2006 is not a year for consumers to buy futures across the board. The en primeur campaign will mostly focus on 30 or 40 of the top names, particularly limited-production cult wines that are getting harder and harder to buy. My preliminary ratings follow; the wines to focus on are those with score ranges of 95–100 or 92–94 points.
Top-Scoring Red Bordeaux
Wine Score
CH?TEAU LAFLEUR Pomerol 2006 95-100
Starts off slow, then cascades like a waterfall. Full and superlong, this is structured and racy. Tight and in reserve. A classic beauty for the vintage. —J.S.
CH?TEAU LATOUR Pauillac 2006 95-100
Very long. Wonderful licorice, berry and currant character. Full and silky, beautiful and pure. This is really distinguished. Feminine but strong. Classic Bordeaux style. —J.S.
CH?TEAU L |
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